Kiws love to tramp. If that sentence made no sense to you, it’s not as saucy as it sounds – apologies. It simply means that down here in New Zealand, hiking, or tramping as it’s known locally, is a beloved national pastime. Along with slinging a rugby ball around and slapping some sausies on the barbie, obviously. The reason for this love of donning some hiking boots and going bush soon becomes apparent for visitors to New Zealand: the place is gorgeous.
Hiking in New Zealand actually goes back to the 1800’s. Obviously, people were walking around on two legs before then, but when European settlers first arrived in New Zealand, they would often get around on foot, as the bush was too dense for horses. Later, when deer and trout were introduced, folks went hiking into the hills to hunt, and to the rivers and lakes to fish.
These days, with infinite options for getting around that don’t involve using our legs, taking a stroll through nature has become a sought after pastime. New Zealand, with its vast, untamed wilderness and hiking trails by the thousands, has become a destination for walkers of all types.
New Zealand hikes are world famous, and for good reason. It’s a land of active volcanoes, soaring mountain peaks, endless coastline and completely unique native bush. There’s every manner of trail, from easy day walks to multi day hikes. As a country that loves to tramp, New Zealand is completely set up for it: as well as hiking trails, the wilderness is full of backcountry huts, from basic bivvies to 60-bunk huts with flushing toilets. These are maintained by the New Zealand Department of Conservation (DOC), with the idea being to get more people out there doing it.
New Zealand DOC huts are synonymous with adventure, and some of the best places in the world to shelter for the night. These humble, plywood spaces are where boots are hung up, cups of tea are endless, stories are exchanged and strangers quickly become friends.
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The aptly named Great Walks of New Zealand are particularly special. There are ten of these multi day hikes in truly spectacular locations around the country, and are more maintained than the standard DOC hut. They have big, comfortable huts and campsites, well-kept tracks, plenty of signage and hut wardens to keep an eye on things. They’re all easy to medium difficulty, and are between 2 and 6 days. In other words, they’re a perfect entry-level for the not-so-seasoned hiker, with scenery that’ll blow anyone’s mind. While every walk in New Zealand is great, these ones make hiking easy and accessible.
When is the best hiking season in New Zealand?
The best time to come hiking in New Zealand varies depending whether you want long, warm summer days or fewer people. New Zealand summer, which is December, January and February, is glorious for hiking, but that’s also when most people visit, and when Kiwis go on holiday. The hiking season for the Great Walks in New Zealand is October through May, and coming in the shoulder seasons will mean avoiding the crowds. The weather will be cooler, with a higher likelihood of rain – but in New Zealand, you’re rolling the dice with weather any time of year.
The system for booking a bunk or campsite also varies depending on what hike you’re going for. The Great Walks have to be booked and paid for online, and often sell out up to 6 months in advance. Other DOC huts require booking either online or at a Department of Conservation visitor center during the hiking season (October through May). Some simply have a ‘first come first served’ policy. For these ones, always bring a sleeping roll and be prepared to crash under a dining table if it’s a popular night. It’s a great way to make friends.
How hot does it get in the summer?
In the North Island, the average high is 24°C, and in the South Island it’s 22°C. Having said that, New Zealand is moody when it comes to weather. Summer can see rain, storms, sub zero temperatures, and of course plenty of 30°C + days, which, when you’re carrying a tramping pack, is enough to slow anyone down a gear or two.
How cold does it get in the late evening?
In summer, the North Island stays pretty mild, dropping to around 15°C. In the South Island, it tends to get down to 8-10°C. As above, though, storms are common in summer, and it’s not unheard of for the hills to get a dusting of snow in the middle of summer in New Zealand. It depends on the hike too – if you’re hiking in Mount Cook National Park, for example, always prepare for alpine weather.
What should I pack for a hiking trip?
If this is the start of your hiking career in New Zealand, prepare to start learning the craft of packing one’s pack. It’s a finely tuned skill, a balance of getting all the essentials without overloading your pack. For every multi day hike in New Zealand, you’ll need thermals or other warm layers for the evenings, plenty of spare socks, a rain jacket, hiking boots, and enough food to stave the hanger off. Of course, there are the optionals, too, which all depends on your style – things like hiking poles, cameras and bird identifying guide books. Some New Zealand hikes involve more than one medium of active transport, like the Abel Tasman National Park. This one can be done in part (or full) by kayak, so paddlers might need to adjust their packing list accordingly.
If this seems like a handful, spare a thought for the women who tramped back in the day – in the 1920s, they had to wear long skirts when tramping. That was until 1929, when one daring lass decided enough was enough and started wearing her brother’s rugby shorts. The others quickly followed suit.
If packing a pack is a finely tuned skill, then packing food is an art. Like any art, there are many different approaches. There’s the ‘fine dining screw the weight’ approach – think wine, cheese, crackers and fresh vegetables. On the other end of the spectrum are the dedicated dehydrated meal eaters. Dehydrated dinners (and breakfasts, and lunches) are sachets of the ultimate lightness that expand with water to become chicken carbonara , Thai green curry and pumpkin soup. There is a happy medium between the two, you’ll be happy to know. Meals like risotto, curry and porridge with a bit of fresh fruit or veg are ideal, because they stay light until you add water.
What you need all depends on how long your hike is, and how much you value a little bit of fancy at the end of a long day on the trails. Whatever your approach, for God’s sake, make sure to spare yourself from glass jars.
After food, you’ll need a cooker, gas and utensils. On some of the Great Walks, the huts may have gas cookers, which lessens the load. The Department of Conservation website has the lowdown on every hut and its facilities.
If you’re doing a day trip, like the Tongariro Crossing, your pack can be a whole lot smaller. Still, make sure to bring enough food and water, as well as warm and waterproof layers. A rule that pays to stick to is packing as if you’re going to get stuck for the night – so plenty of high energy snacks and clothes to keep you properly warm. If you’re going to remember any of these travel tips, that’s probably the one to go for.
Do I need hiking boots?
The short answer? Yes. It’s possible to attempt hikes in running shoes or trainers, but when you’ve got a heavy pack on your back, you’ll want the added support. Lots of the trails in New Zealand can get muddy, too, so waterproof hiking boots will make your life a whole lot easier.
Is hiking free in New Zealand?
The hikes are free, but depending on their category, some of the huts and campsites aren’t. The Great Walks have to be booked and payed for online, costing around $30 per person per night. Other serviced huts may cost up to $10 a night, which you can pay for on booking. Most standard huts are free, and all day walks are free.
How much cash should I bring with me?
With any bookings done online or at the visitor center, you shouldn’t need any cash.
The 12 Best Hikes in New Zealand
The Milford Track
Milford Sound is the prize jewel of Fiordland National Park , if not the South Island, and the track is possibly the most spectacular hike in New Zealand. It’s a Great Walk, and it’s quite obvious why as soon as you start walking through this land of virgin native rainforest, fiords banked by steep cliffs and endless waterfalls. Hikers ascend to the high point at MacKinnon Pass and are rewarded with incredible views across to the peaks of the Southern Alps and down into Milford Sound.
How long is the Milford Track New Zealand?
The hike takes 4 days, across 54 kilometers with an elevation gain of 1755 meters.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing has been lauded the best day hike in New Zealand, and one of the best day hikes in the world. Found deep in Tongariro National Park, in the North Island, this 19.4-kilometer journey is challenging, but well worth the slog. The Tongariro Crossing is a trek through the volcano country of the North Island, with stellar views of all three of the volcanoes in the national park: Mount Ngauruhoe (Lord of the rings fans you might know this one as Mount Doom), Mount Ruapehu and Mount Tongariro.
Is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hard?
With steep climbs and unpredictable weather, the crossing is definitely a big day, and one to be well-prepared for. It can only be done in fine weather between November and May, unless you’re an experienced mountaineer and have the know-how to brave the icy, alpine winter conditions. It’s a one-way hike, and there are shuttle services to pick up and drop off hikers, with the closest town in Tongariro National Park being Whakapapa village.
Mueller Hut
The journey up to Mueller Hut would have to be up there with the most dramatic hikes in the South Island, found in the heart of Aoraki Mount Cook National Park, and with the best of mountain vistas- gaze directly from the hut at Mt Cook and down the length of the Southern Alps. The first part of the walk, up to the lake at Sealy Tarns, has been dubbed the ‘stairway to heaven’ – get ready to work those glutes. Don’t worry, though, the mountain views will keep your mind off the burn, for the most part.
Start on the Kea Point Track from outside the visitor center at Mount Cook Village, or at the White Horse Hill car park, at the end of the Hooker Valley Road. The track climbs steeply up the Mueller Range, and after two hours, hikers are rewarded with panoramic views down over the Hooker Valley from Sealy Tarns. Push on another two hours, and find yourself at the unmissable Mueller Hut, with incredible views down to the Mueller glacier. If you’re staying the night, it’s a once in a lifetime experience – watching the light turn pink on the mountains and the hush broken only by the crack of avalanches from the mountains above.
If the stairway to heaven is a bit out of reach or you’re short on time, but still fancy views of the mighty Mt Cook, the Hooker Valley track is a brilliant day hike and great walk to do with kids. A 10km return track, it winds through the Hooker Valley, complete with swing bridges and views up to Mt Sefton.
Abel Tasman Track
Abel Tasman National Park is a subtropical wonderland, with deep native bush, golden sand beaches and crystal clear waters. Explore it on two feet by way of the Abel Tasman Coast Track, which follows the coastline, or take the ocean road, and by that we mean kayak. You can choose to either hike the trail, kayak alongside it with seals, dolphins and penguins to keep you company, or a combination of both. Either way, it’s another of New Zealand’s Great Walks, so there’s a big, comfortable hut waiting at the end of the day. With the mild climate of the Abel Tasman National Park, this trail can be done year round. It can take between 3 to 5 days, depending how much time you can spare.
French Ridge
The mission to French Ridge hut is a semi-hidden gem, and one of the best hikes in Mount Aspiring National Park. Easily accessible from Wanaka, it’s a solid challenge, and can be done either as a big day walk or over two days. If you’ve got the time, stay the night – once you see the red hut perched on the ridge with views to Mount Aspiring, you won’t want to leave. The trail starts from Raspberry Creek Carpark, at the end of the road into the Matukituki Valley, about an hour from Wanaka. Hike through farmland for the first hour, flanked by bush-covered cliffs, before entering the forest itself.
After three to four hours, the trail reaches Pearl Flat, before crossing the river over the Liverpool Stream bridge, and from there it’s another three or four hours – straight up. Leave plenty of time as it’s a hearty climb. This hike should only be attempted in fine weather, as the top part is exposed and can be treacherous. The 20 bunk hut is just below the summer snow line, and offers spectacular views whichever way you turn your head. It’s first come, first served, so leave early if you want a bunk.
Routeburn Track
The Routeburn Track, another South Island Great Walk, bridges Aspiring National Park and Fiordland National Park. It’s a hike that meets one ridiculous view after another, and makes time stretch in the way that only the wild can. The Routeburn Track, which can be done in 2 to 4 days, has been named one of the best hikes in the world by Lonely Planet, which seems like a no-brainer as soon as you set foot on the trail.
It’s a one way trail, rather than a loop track, and most people start on the Glenorchy side, staying at Routeburn Falls hut and Lake Mackenzie hut. This way pops hikers out in Fiordland National Park, at the Divide Shelter, 85km from Te Anau. The trail is only 33 km long, but it’s an endless banquet of waterfalls, alpine lakes, soaring peaks and magical rainforest.
If you’re short on time, you don’t have to do the overnight thing to be rewarded with mountain views, either. The Key Summit track is a half day walk off the Milford Road that makes up part of the Routeburn Track. It’s a perfect hike for the kids. Follow the Routeburn for an hour off the Milford Road, before hitting the Key Summit track and climbing for about 20 minutes, and being met with epic views.
Roy’s Peak
If you’ve got a clear day and time to kill in Lake Wanaka, Roy’s Peak is the ultimate day mission. The trail has skyrocketed in popularity since it became instafamous, but that doesn’t take away from the incredible views – it’s still one of the best day hikes in New Zealand. The views from the top are breathtaking, with Lake Wanaka, the Matukituki Valley and Lake Hawea all splayed out before you. The hike up to Roy’s Peak and back takes an average of 5 hours, but given the variety of walkers that hit the trail (both camel-back clad runners and folks in high heels), that 5 hours is an approximation.
This one can be done year round, but the top will often have snow in winter, so be prepared.
Copeland Track
This track is one of the most magical trails in the South Island, and a great place to wander in wonder. The trail is actually over 100 years old, built to connect the West Coast with Mt Cook, and you can feel the Naturalist era in which it was born. The trail weaves gently into the curves of the stone and forest, and is flanked by moss covered rock in many parts. This hike doesn’t have the extreme mountain vistas of others in the South Island, but it’s one of the best trails for stopping and marveling at the intricacies of the forest along the way, before being popped out sporadically at swing bridges for a view of the outside world.
It’s about 6 hours of fairly gentle hiking along the Copeland River to reach Welcome Flats hut. Staying in a DOC hut generally has an element of ‘roughing it’, but while there’s still shared bunkrooms and long drop toilets, Welcome Flats may be an exception. Waiting at the end of this hike at the Welcome Flats hut is a nature-designed luxury that no human could outdo. There are natural hot springs carved into the mountain, ready to soak your tired bones as you take in the jagged peaks of the Southern Alps, and stars so close you could touch them.
Kepler Track
The Kepler Track is another of the South Island Great Walks that ducks and weaves through Fiordland National Park. With a hefty change in elevation, this hike rewards its visitors with an extraordinary array of New Zealand scenery. Start on the flat, through fairy-like beech forest, before tackling the climb and traversing a soaring ridgeline with views down to Lake Te Anau and the Murchison mountains. The Kepler Track is a loop track, and generally done in between 3 and 5 days – though there’s an annual trail running race that sees that time suggestion completely smashed. Slow and steady, if you ask us.
The hike starts on the shores of Lake Te Anau, which is the best place for a post-walk swim, followed by a hearty feed at a pub in the village.
Te Paki Coastal Track
Tropical Northland is awesome on foot, and the Te Paki track is the best way to experience the top of New Zealand. Hike along the rugged coastline of Cape Reinga, where the Pacific Ocean crashes into the Tasman Sea, before descending to Te Werahi and Twilight beaches. The South Island of New Zealand gets a lot of attention, but this place is pretty special. Cape Reinga, or Te Rerenga Wairua, is a deeply significant place for Maori, and is said to be where the spirits of the dead leave the land.
It’s a 3 to 4 day one way hike, though you can drop in and do a chunk as long or as short as you’d like. There are three campsites along the way, but no huts so hikers need to be pretty self sufficient. The best time to do it is summer, when the weather’s gorgeous and camping on the beach is actually pleasant. If you finish at Te Paki stream, you can keep walking all the way down Ninety Mile Beach, if there’s any juice left in the tank.
Heaphy Track
The Heaphy Track is another absolute beauty. A Great Walk that explores the northwest of the South Island, it’s one of New Zealand’s most beautiful hiking trails. The bush is thick with native Nikau palms, giving the whole place a distinctly tropical, and yet wholey New Zealand feel. The hike goes from Golden Bay through tussocked highlands, before dropping down in thick palm forest and popping out on the West Coast.
For those looking for a day hike, the trip to Scott’s beach from the Karamea side is mind blowing. The trip is only 2 hours return, but will take you to another world entirely. The empty golden beach and the virgin palm forest feels exactly the way it would have been for the first humans to clap eyes on the shores of New Zealand.
How difficult is the Heaphy Track?
The Heaphy is classified as an intermediate trail, and is 78.4 kilometers long – one of the longer Great Walks. It’s well marked and well formed, and most people do it in 4 or 5 days. It can also be mountain biked in the off season for a mud-splattered 2 or 3 days.
Lake Waikaremoana
As far as North Island trails go, Lake Waikaremoana is special. It’s a Great Walk, funnily enough, though more rugged and ‘off-the-track’ than some of the others. It’s on the east coast of the North Island, in Te Urewera, the homeland of Ngai Tūhoe. Te Urewera is the home and ancestor of the Tūhoe people, and was the first natural feature to be recognised in New Zealand law as a legal entity in its own right.
It’s a 3 to 4 day hike, and the time spent in this part of New Zealand will move you in many ways, if you’re open to it.
