Review: Alchemy Café Cinnamon Scroll

THE WINE WORLD HAS SOMMELIERS, BEER HAS CICERONES, RESTAURANTS HAVE MICHELIN STARS AND CINNAMON SCROLLS HAVE, WELL, ME. LIKE SOMMELIERS, I HAVE BEEN A STUDENT OF MY CRAFT FOR DECADES, WORKING COUNTLESS HOURS TO FINE TUNE MY PASTRY PALETTE.

Rumours have been swirling in the cinnamon scroll community for months about a new chef in town, a chef locked away in a kitchen with a bag of flour, Escher’s complete works and Einstein’s theory of relativity.

Daryl Higgs of Alchemy Café in Wānaka has emerged with the solution to the problem that has paralysed the Cinnamon Guild for over two centuries. How do we make the entire scroll taste like the centre?

With no beginning or end, Higgs’ cinnamon ‘twist’ turns the problem upside down and inside out to create a scroll that is all centre! He also follows in the difficult Scandinavian tradition of maximising the surface area, a technique used to further enhance the natural flavours of the scroll, thus decreasing the sugar (unlike the Americans, who cover up their lack of creativity with icing).

For his contribution to the art of cinnamon scrolls, Higgs and Alchemy Café have been awarded the Cinnamon Guild’s coveted five (out of five) oven mitts.

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NATHAN WEATHINGTON

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